Wiring is 90% completed on 1994 Z-71

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here is my engine all ready to kill a hemi or two
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I still need to solve the problem of a large air intake and the fan that would hit it if installed
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These connectors are Swagelok 3/8 crimp to #6 AN fittings and are stainless steel.
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I hope these photos attach correctly... A lot of work went into my wiring and I want to show it off !!!

As soon as I solve the fan blade and air intake issue I will start on my cruise control wiring. More photos to come if this works...

I rode in a co-worker 2009 2500 truck with the 6 speed. It was really nice, but the engine is screaming for a Nelson Tune... He is a GM tech and isn't aware of the magic that a tune will accomplish...( insert evil villian laugh here)

Z-Rod:chevy:

Looks good. How did the alternator hook up? use the 94 connections? Also what a/c brackets are you using?

Set of e-fans would solve that problem.

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Originally Posted by classic79

Looks good. How did the alternator hook up? use the 94 connections? Also what a/c brackets are you using?

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Hey classy 79,

Alt hookup was two wires, brown wire to volt gauge and bat terminal lug on alt gets hooked to battery- very easy. My A/C conversion kit... not so much... The A/C compressor conversion kit I purchased seems to work fine if you have ls brackets from what I can tell. I am using the accessory brackets that come with all vortec truck engines. The kit uses the stock belt tensioner but the tensioner won't stay where it should once the engine starts. It swings toward the compressor and the tensioner pully hits a bracket bolt... and the belt gets too slack to run the compressor. I have tried every combination of idler pully diameter (there are 3 pullies you can swap out) with no luck. The belt is so tight that it take about 15 minutes of fighting with it to get it on with the tensioner puller all the way back. When you release the tension, everything looks fine and tight, until you start the engine. The swing of the truck tensioner (the arc) isn't capable of putting tension in the right place on the belt without moving all the way to rest. I have ordered another a/c compressor conversion kit for my stock R4 compressor. This kit is from Novak, they are a jeep engine conversion company that just so happens to make a sweet looking kit. They have a fantastic customer service department that has hands on experience with v8 ls engine conversions. Their kit comes with a new compressor for around $580 and agreed to sell me a kit w/o the compressor for $300. I just wish I bought this kit first. Here is a photo of their kit. This is top shelf.
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I will post pics of me enjoying a cool arctic blast while burning some rubber. Anyway- hope this answers your question.

Z-Rod :chevy:

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Originally Posted by PitchBlackC3

Set of e-fans would solve that problem.

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I know, but I have already purchased new shrouds to go with my hugeass 34" radiator. I also bought the correct fan blade that goes on OBS trucks that have the new 30mm threaded fan clutch. What I really need is a 3 or 4 inch spacer that moves my fan closer to the radiator. My engine mount adapters set the engine back further so my tranny and transfer case sit in the stock location. This makes a little more room between the engine and radiator, but also moves the fan back. This has been my biggest hurdle so far... I have the air intake crossing under the rad hose which is right next to the compressor. This is why it is called car crafting. oh well-

I plan on getting/making a fan clutch spacer... and then replacing that huge rubber air intake with something less bulky so I can route the air intake 90 degrees to the air filter box, clear the compressor and not hit the fan or fan shroud. Easier said than done.

Z-Rod

looks really nice, it seems like youre oh so close!!

the adaptor the adaptor shouldnt be to hard to make, good luck should be a nice ride when done

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Originally Posted by Z-Rod

I know, but I have already purchased new shrouds to go with my hugeass 34" radiator. I also bought the correct fan blade that goes on OBS trucks that have the new 30mm threaded fan clutch. What I really need is a 3 or 4 inch spacer that moves my fan closer to the radiator. My engine mount adapters set the engine back further so my tranny and transfer case sit in the stock location. This makes a little more room between the engine and radiator, but also moves the fan back. This has been my biggest hurdle so far... I have the air intake crossing under the rad hose which is right next to the compressor. This is why it is called car crafting. oh well-

I plan on getting/making a fan clutch spacer... and then replacing that huge rubber air intake with something less bulky so I can route the air intake 90 degrees to the air filter box, clear the compressor and not hit the fan or fan shroud. Easier said than done.

Z-Rod

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Looks killer z-rod, we have similar set ups, I got that massive radiator as well, What transmission are you running? did you get the speedo and tach to work?

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Originally Posted by coastsidekid

Looks killer z-rod, we have similar set ups, I got that massive radiator as well, What transmission are you running? did you get the speedo and tach to work?

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I have a 4L60E that was rebuilt 2 years ago with a Stage II package. Claims to be good to 420 ft/lb Tq. This truck will scratch 2nd gear without trying. If you really get on it, it will bark 2nd, loudly. I watched a 5.0 GT Rustang driver jump when he heard my tires scratch 2nd... my tires were right next to his window.

My speedo worked from day one... I connected the new computer VSS wires to the existing VSS wires and all is good. My tach needed the 680 ohm resistor trick. Now all I need is one of those 454SS gauge cluster that goes to 6k RPM.

Thanks for the compliment. I started "Hot Rodding" in 1980 when I got a 1969 Camaro for my Birthday. I worked at my Dad's auto parts store and had every speed catalog available. And I learned a lot from mechanics and co-workers about real HP improvements. I came real close to pulling my 350 and "building" a very nice engine with a TPI set-up and Vortec heads. Had I gone down that road, I would have a 300HP small block that gets 9 or 10 MPG. I luckily found this site and now, have about 330 HP and expect to get around 17 or 18 MPG, with all the benefits of a 2005 engine, aluminum heads, 2005 ECM bigass alternator, etc, etc.

I can't wait to run it on a dyno- when I get my first speeding ticket, and the cop asks "do you know how fast you were goin' sonny?" I can reply... "Should have been at least 125, maybe 128 officer"

Z-Rod out