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Hey guys. Im kind of new to the whole go fast scene since i used to drive an 02 4 cylinder S10 and that thing wouldnt get out of its own way if its life depended upon it. By my screen name you can tell that i have an 01 silverado Z71 and its an extended cab. So i have just about the heaviest brick you can start with(5285 pounds to be exact with a full tank of gas). But a two wheel drive wont make it five feet out onto my deer lease and a regular cab just isnt practical for me. I recently blew the clutches in my tranny after i got my nelson tune and am trying to figure out which way to go. Being as new as i am to the whole speed thing i want to some input from the guys who have already been there and done that. I have three options rebuild the stock transmission with good parts, upgrade it to a 65e or just ditch it and get an 80e. Anyones :twocents: would be appreciated. If i should get the stock one rebuilt what parts should i spend the money to upgrade. Im going to get a 3000 stall any route that i go. My future plans include a 6L swap built up to around 500hp or so and hopefully a 100-150 shot of nitrous. I would really like to only do the transmission stuff once. Thanks, Cody
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im very new to this but is seem like everyone put a 80e in it. from with i get by read around the internet the 80e seem to be strong tranny :twocents:
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Listen,
Unless you plan on using some crazy hp and torque in the near future, don't bother with the 80e. Alot of custom work is required for that and it isn't a practical tranny for the kind of hp and tq you are currently running. Rebuild the 60E with performance internals and it will do ya good for around 400-500hp.
Here is an awesome list of parts for you to get from good ol' HitmanX :thumb:
This is the most complete list I have...
FIRST, THIS GIVES YOU A VERY DETAILED IDEA OF HOW TO BUILD A 4L60E TO TAKE SOME SERIOUS ABUSE. THIS IS INFO I HAVE COLELCTED, READ, RESEARCHED, AND PIECED TOGETHER INORDER TO FIND THE BEST POSSIBLE SOLUTION FOR THE 4L60E. I TAKE NO LIABILITY IN WHAT IS HERE, BUT IT GIVES AN OVERVIEW OF WHAT IS INCLUDED. Do not go and buy parts until you speak with a good reliable transmission builder. That way when it gets built, you and (s)he will know what to expect and how it will perform. Plan your attack, you wouldn't want to get stuck with incrorrect parts would you???
THESE ARE JUST A FEW BASICS:
1 - A quality paper and rubber kit, be sure to use new bushings as well as bearings too
2 - Take up the end play, and verify the clutch pack clearances. End play and slop helps kill transmissions almost as quick as heat does.
3 - Throw away the "load release" springs out of the 3-4 clutch pack.
4 - Use high quality frictions and steels. Alto Red Eagles, Raybestos Blue Plates, Borg Warner Tans.
5 - Toss check ball from: input shaft, No 5, and No 3.
6 - Block the 4th accumulator
7 - Ditch the servo check ball and capsule from case, install a cup plug in place.
8 - Check 2-4 band clearance
9 - BIG transmission fluid cooler
Sonnax HD 1-2 and 3-4 accumulator springs - Helps with the 1-2 upshift and 3-4 upshift.
Sonnax Pinless Aluminum Forward Accumulator - Stock can be plastic, this is pinless
Sonnax Pinless Aluminum 1-2, 3-4 Acuumulator - Stock is usually plastic, cracks, loses pressure.
Sonnax Servo Release Check Valve - Limits 3-2 downshift tieup/burning
Sonnax Fwd/Rev Abuse Bore Plug - Prevents burning of the clutch packs and band
Sonnax TCC Lockup Conversion - Makes TCC Lockup an ON/OFF setup, very slick
Sonnax Stator Support Shaft - More flow to the 3-4 clutch pack and prevents converter overheat...you may or may not need this.
Clutches and Band:
2-4 Band - Black Kevlar Lined 2-4 Band OR Kevlar (Std) 2-4 Band OR Alto 2-4 Band (Alto and Std Kevlar requires wider input drum) - greater holding capacity, less likely to break off band anchor than OE, anchor on the Altos are 60% greater. Oversized Kevlar and Alto are 3/8 wider that stock band. Most late hardened input drums from TDE are ready for the wider band. The standard band is still wider than pretty much all other transmissions so it's not a necessity.
3-4 Clutch Pack - Preference
Low/Reverse and Forward - Preference
I'd go Alto Red Eagles (9 with the thinner steels or 8 with the thicker ones) or Borg Warner High Energy Tans. I don't see the need for the Blue Plate Specials...the Z-Pak from Raybestos is slick too.
HARD PARTS:
29 Element Foreward Input Sprag - far better in HO applications
13 Vane Pump Conversion Kit - extra fluid flow at higher RPMs
Heavy Duty 5 Pinion Front Planetary - 5 pinions vs 4, stronger under load, hardened gears, made of powered metal
Heavy Duty 5 Pinion Rear Planetary - 5 pinions vs 4, stronger under load, hardened gears, made of powered metal
Heavy Duty Reaction Carrier Shaft - eliminates need for thrust washers, works in conjunction with the Sun Gear Shell
Heavy Duty Reaction Sun Gear Shell - limits cracking and splitting on bearing area
Heavy Duty Input Shaft and Drum - limits stress cracks on drum, limits broken shaft
Heavy Duyy Output Shaft - limits broken shafts
TransGo shift kit - .500 boost valve, HO Pump Spring, 1-2 accum spring, fixes problems like...3-4 burnup, 2-3 overlap, delay bangs, poor 3-2 kickdown, etc. PSK or HD2 kits.
Superior Intermediate Super Servo - greater band holding power, much better 2-3 shifts, excellent 1-2 shifts, 35% more apply than 'Vette servo
Superior Overdrive Super Servo - greater holding power in 4th, much better 3-4 shifts, 50% more apply than OE part, comes with billet cover too
Any good rebuild kit should have most of these parts, the specific parts needed will be per kit. KDSperformance.com stocks tons of parts. Anything else a trans shop should be able to get. The weakest part is the Reaction Sun Gear Shell, I am unsure if anyone makes a forged/billet one...but if someone does and you are pushing insane amounts of power, get it.
Once you have that stuff done, then it comes down to the builder. Some like tight clearances for less slop, others like looser for less drag. Really depends. I'd shoot for the medium range on them. I haven't built one to have it blow up so I can't say what would work better in what scenario. Tight may be better for HO apps and looser for towing.
Additionally, many hard parts can be cryogenically treated and stress relieved to increase strength and duraibility...sure it costs more but when you are pushing the limits of the 4L60E you need everything done. Once your internals are fully prepped to resist breaking, I begin to see the 3-4 pack burn up...I believe mainly due to insufficient fluid flow and incorrect clearances. I have noticed that you can run even thinner steels and run thinner clutches in the 3-4 and forward gear to be able add more holding power. I am unsure of any additional holding power with the thinner frictions and steels as if you add too many thin ones you may lose the additional holding power by the abundance of the frictions and steels in the pack. Additional clutches in the 3-4 may require machining to fit also.
Finally super hard shifts are bad even on the best internals. Just go with a fully installed TransGo, NO washers in the 1-2 accumulator, and both billet servos for an excellent shifting as well as not overly hard trans.
