Which one is better and will a 1pc hold up to the 400+hp/Tq I am making. I also run slicks at the track so not looking to wipe everything out. The one i am looking at is a 1 pc 4in aluminum. Thanks gang.
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Which one is better and will a 1pc hold up to the 400+hp/Tq I am making. I also run slicks at the track so not looking to wipe everything out. The one i am looking at is a 1 pc 4in aluminum. Thanks gang.
I was always told the 2 piece ones are better for lifted vehicles because of the ability to moderate the angle between trans and rear.
As far as racing goes, i would assume a 1 piece would be stronger/less rotating mass. Most race cars use a carbon fiber or aluminum 1 piece, so there must be a reason.
You ARE extended cab so that is a pretty long 1 piece, might want to talk to the company making the shaft to see what they recommend.
That is what i always thought. I have a drive line vibration that i am looking to get rid of. Seems like the one piece would be better for that but I dont want to toast the trans and rearend if the driveshaft lets go when i launch or going 120+
stay with the factory 2 pc. i used a one pc. and broke it, it was alluminum at WOT the shaft would flex, so after flexing alot lol it twisted and broke.. i then went back to my 2 pc. and ran ever since until i swapped the drivetrain ;)
by the way the 2 pc got me my 11.8 pass :)
Gotcha guys Thanks
yep. 2 piece. im still on my factory 2 piece no problems.
hey mark what speeds you getting vibration at? might think about pulling the drive shaft with carrier bearing and getting the whole thing rebalanced ?
Check pinion angle if you're lowered. Check carrier bearing/u joints for play
about 70ish mph, I relocated the carrier but i guess i need to check the pinion angle again. it should be -3* right?Quote:
Originally Posted by skeet
how low are ya, IIRC its like -3 to -6
when i welded my bracket backet back in i adjusted for the pinion angle though