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OK, when im on the street I can stall(reved up my automatic before realesing the break) my truck up to about 1500-1800 RPMs tops before the rear wheels start spinning, but if I can stall it up to about 1700 RPMs then I can launch great. But anyways, I went out to the track lastnight an it was my first time to ever run my truck on the 1/4 mile an I just sucked for some reason. My first run was a 15.10 2nd run 14.99 an 3rd run(best) 14.89@93 MPH. But for some reason I just bairly stalled it up off the line. I guess I just froze up an I need more practice, cause I was told by a few friends that I should of stalled it up alot more. Like just as much as I would of on the street an then some. So my main question is, What kind of RPMs do you guys(with out stalls) stall your trucks up to before launching on the 1/4mile? :burnout:
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i stall right at 1200 due to traction, but now that i have et streets and dont have to worry about traction, i stall it as high as i can without spinning. about 1600-1700.
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O ya, an how much should I burnout? Should I just spin them a little or light them up?
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Light them up. I just bought some BFG drag radials and they hook up way better than my Goodyear GTII's I have on my 20's, but when I lit them up, they hooked even better. I think it's the tire compound, it likes the heat and gets really sticky :rock:
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chingon, what size walls do the BFG's have?
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i found that my truck runs quicker et's by stalling at 1000 to 1200. i was trying to max it out without spinning the tires but et suffered. i use a street tire.
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very carefully :taunt:
there are a number of factors that play in here,
tires( type, size, pressure)
stall ( what size)
peg leg, or posi
track/street condition
horse power
driver.
Tires are one of the most important items when trying to launch.
of course ET's are the way to go, but
what you want are tires with a good amount of sidewall. 20 inch rims with 45 series tires just arent going to get you the times you are looking for. for one there is a whole lot more rotational mass that you are having to turn, and secong there is no side wall to crinkle. basically it's like racing on hard rubber tires.
now if you get you a set of 16 inch rims you want about a 60 series tire on there.
on my truck I run a 285/60/16. these are street tires. My wheel spin is vertualy 0.
I have 12.5 inches of tire to ground contact. overall surface area. the are 28 inches tall, and have at least 6 inches of sidewall.
pressure is another factor that plays in here. if you are running 32-42lbs of air(depending on your tire recondmendations(sp)) that is to much for the track.
I run 25lbs of air in my tires for everyday driving. If I put in 32lbs, it makes a nice burnout show, but thats not what you want when racing. At the track I have taken it down to 11lbs of air in the tires. it all depends on the track conditions.
stalls:
the higher the stall the quicker it gets you into your power band, the most likely your gonna spin the tires, this is where knowing how to drive your vehicle comes into play( not saying that anyone here DOES NOT KNOW HOW TO DRIVE) just stating the obvious facts. learn to feather it if your getting wheel spin. for example there was a guy at the track when we had our GTG on the 16. not going to mention his name, if he wants to post up he knows who he is :), anyways, he was constantly running 15.7"s, when asked what his modds where, he said a HPPIII exhaust, and CIA, stock stall, and a peg leg. I said you should be running 15.5 easy. he tried and tried and couldnt get it there, another guy drove it and ran a 16. I finally got in it took it for a test spin in the parking lot of the track, came back lowered the air pressure, took it back out to test it and still was getting tire spin. even just going half throttle. went and got in line. stalled it up to about 1200rpms, and then when the light turned green, i feathered it off the line untill it got going and then hammered it. ran a 15.5? on the first try. its. a proven fact. tire spinning doesnt help, which is why you posted this thread.
peg leg/posi.
there is a world of diffrence in swapping out the peg leg for a posi.
plain and simple.
track/street condition
this is going to be like night and day.
at the track you might get no wheel spin , and on the street you might not be able to hook up to save your life. once again knowing how to feather and drive your truck comes into play here. practice, practice, practice. it takes a while to really know how your truck reacts to diffrent situation, expecially if you are constantly changing setups.
I can tell you this
I run mid 14's with 60' at a 2.0?
I get virtually no wheel spin taking off. and this is with a 3,000 stall, and a 3.73 posi rear end, and street tires.
if I do its cause of 1 or 2 things. either the track, was not prepped, or I over looked something when setting up the truck.
hope this helps :thumb: :burnout:
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I launch in 4hi and shift to 2hi as soon as im hooked up. :devil:
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Thanks for the advise 01Thunder, I know I just need to keep practicing my starts more at the track. Cause I never spun off the line an im only running the stock tires. So I need to get a set of ETs. This is kind of a stupid question but, If I do run the same kind of ET's as you at the track then how high do you think I can stall my truck up to?(I dont have a accual stall) O yea, BTW, should I burnout with the ETs or even the stock tire alot or just spin them to get them clean?
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i dont have a set of ET's
I run stock 285/60/16 GT Eagle II's at the track.
all I do to them is spin them good enough to get them clean. if your doing a burnout and just sitting there spinning and getting a lot of smoke, thats to much for street tires.
I power break, and then once it gets going I release the break and take off and them stop at the staging light.
right now I stall mine at or a little above 2,000 rpms, and it hooks good.
