Turbotime Moves into Gen 3 parts and sales

Greetings, as an associate of Turbotime I’d like to introduce myself. My name is Todd and I am a die-hard automotive enthusiast. Currently I am attempting to stuff an LS6 with a turbocharger or two into my 1992 GMC Typhoon.

Now a little about TURBOTIME: www.turbotime.us

Currently there are 3 of us at Turbotime. Currently we deal in the Syclone/Typhoon market, Import market and I am taking on the GM Gen 3 motor and LT1/4 market here at Turbotime. As well as dealing with any turbo you could ever want or need we have almost any high performance supplier that you could ever need or want. Because Turbotime is small we have very little overhead and operate basically out of our homes (LOW OVERHEAD).

Here are some of the vendors we have access to (but not limited to):

QA1 Shocks Comp Cams Crane Cams
SPAL Cometic Gaskets Ferrea Valves
Carillo Rods Eagle Rods Diamond Pistons
JE Pistons (SRP) Garrett Turbochargers (ANY product from PTE)
Callies Cranks NOS TRW
MSD ARP F.A.S.T.
Holley Lunati Brembo Brakes


The above list is a very small list of what vendors we have available. I’d like to know what you guys are looking for and I’m always open to Group Buys. If there is a specific part you are looking for let me know. I’d be happy to get you a price quote. Please email me with the vendor name, part number (if you have it) and application. You may also post your requests here and I will reply to you.

Todd D
LS1parts@turbotime.us

I need a t76 turbo, or something compatible and reliable, I'm building a turbo system and need the turbo now.

Maybe we can trade discount on a turbo and some advertising space :hshake:


later,

allen

T-76 turbo is OLD School Turbo stuff. We can certainly get that if thats the route you want to go. However in my personal opinion and Suggestion I'd strongly recommend the newer 'GT' series turbos. The compressor section and housing has been updated with newer technology parts making them much more efficient than the old 'T' series everyone is familiar with.

Also, depending on what you want to spend, ball bearings are making a very big splash for lower spool/lag and even more efficiency. They are more in the dinero department but they sell like mad.

If you are familiar at all with PTE's turbos, I can guarantee you exactly the same turbo they sell (they are one of our suppliers) for less than they will sell it to you.

I'm not quite sure what you would like in terms of exhaust housing setups but lemme throw out a couple of examples and expected HP rating with the associated turbos:

(both of these turbos are the older school technology compressor wheels).
* TA64 Big Shaft Turbo Supports 680hp and recommended stall is 3300 rpm.
* TE64 Big Shaft Turbo Supports 755hp and recommended stall is 3500 rpm. (This one has a 4" Inlet, the T04s cover and 2.5" outlet).

(these three turbos are the newer GT series turbos)

* GT35R BB (ballbearing) 82mm compressor wheel and similar stalls as listed above. This turbo is also available in a NON BallBearing form, but makes 600hp instead but is significantly cheaper.

* GT40 Available in an 82mm or 88mm compressor making somewhere around 750hp with similar spool as the above mentioned turbos also.

* GT42R Available with 94mm or 102mm compressor wheel making in excess of 1100hp+ (lets not be concerned about spool here).


Obviously we have access to turbos for the smallest displacement imports all the way upto 2200hp HUGE CFM turbos. Tayloring what your driving and what your intentions are is going to be the key in deciding which turbo best fits your needs. To be honest, I doubt any of the ones above are a dead drop in for you. Also, in regards to the stall speeds, keep in mind that those numbers were generated against a 3.8L Buick Motor (as I am pulling info off PTE's price sheet).

There are a number of options for exhaust housings available, in addtion to options for internal wastegates on some of the turbos that cost a little more initially but save you on the back side for not having to purchase and plumb in an external.

However, if you choose to go external, we have almost every manufacturer available for those too. :laugh:

Prolly best to email me with your build and what you want to do with the turbo and your truck. I myself am building a Forced Induction LS6 to put in my Typhoon and it would be nice to see what others are doing too. This subject is near and dear to my heart as its going to be a BIG purchase for me and my toy.

Todd
ls1parts@turbotime.us

Quote:

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Originally posted by Tydriver@Apr 23 2004, 07:16 AM


Prolly best to email me with your build and what you want to do with the turbo and your truck.
Todd
ls1parts@turbotime.us

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I'm going to pm you, i'm interested,

thanks for all the input,

allen

Hey Turbo Time, I have been trying to decide weather I want to supercharge or turbo charge my truck. An I was thinking of going with a turbo charger if I could get a good deal. So what kind of price would I be loking at to supercharge my 2004 silverado 5.3L? If you want you can e-mail me at Z71bigchevy@aol.com

A complete bolt on turbo kit with an intercoller option would be nice for stock 5.3, 4.8, and 6.0. Needs to be reliable for daily drivers.

No one makes turbo kits like this for our trucks, only supercharger kits. Personally, I would opt for the turbo long before a supercharger. I think they are just way more fun.

Combination Motorsports in Las Vegas makes a turbocharger already.

Quote:

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Originally posted by Chingon@May 6 2004, 02:37 AM
Combination Motorsports in Las Vegas makes a turbocharger already.

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They make a KIT ? Or just the turbo ? I assume by this you mean its a kit for the Gen 3 motored trucks. Thats cool if they do, I'd like to see it !

I was talking to my friend last night about this. We'd like to offer a kit for the trucks but as most of you are aware the costs escalate quickly. The stock PCM is good for about 4-5# of boost. After that it runs out of ability to accomodate fueling (MAF limited). So you have 2 options: Run some sort of a band-aide type setup like alot of supercharger kits do (FMU, that spikes fuel pressure and in turn flow, which works, but makes me nervous with a turbo.) Or switch to a different PCM altogether, (FAST, DFI, AEM etc) which adds significantly to the price of the modification. The question then becomes, is 4-5# of boost enough and is it worth the money spent ?

4-5# of boost on an Gen3 motor would result in some appreciable gains, but I can see the situation occuring when the owner wants to tweak it past that :-(

The other limiting factor here, is that neither of us own a truck new enough to have this engine combo to try everything out on. :-( :-(

CMotorsports offers a kit. Parish8 on ls1tech.com has installed the kit on his 6.0, stock bottom end except for rod bolts and head studs. He is using the stock computer with ls1 edit and just ran a 10.91 in the 1/4. I don't see why the stock pcm wouldn't be capable of supporting more than 4-5#. Get larger injectors and edit and you shouldn't have too many problems.

Quote:

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Originally posted by 04sierra@May 8 2004, 01:14 PM
CMotorsports offers a kit. Parish8 on ls1tech.com has installed the kit on his 6.0, stock bottom end except for rod bolts and head studs. He is using the stock computer with ls1 edit and just ran a 10.91 in the 1/4. I don't see why the stock pcm wouldn't be capable of supporting more than 4-5#. Get larger injectors and edit and you shouldn't have too many problems.

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Correct you are, the larger injectors are definitely a MUST. However, the MAF loses the ability to increase fuel at around 4-5# of boost. (And this was what I was referring to in my previous post, sorry for the confusion). After this point you go into a 'programmed fuel and spark' table type setup for that specific boost level.

This can be offset by making a new calibration (or calibrations), when you run different amounts of boost. The initial calibration for say 8-9# wouldnt be the same as the calibration needed for 14-15# of boost, (If this makes any sense ?)

I'm used to the stock Syclone/Typhoon computer where you can generate a calibration that will cover all ranges of boost (3 bar map sensor), and NOT sweat the issue of tuning up the boost at the track and worrying about the fueling or spark. You set it up once and forget about it.

I'm not saying you cant run the LS1 computer, just that you will need a different calibration for any noticeable increase in boost. And the calibration you make will be for that specific boost setting.

I am going to run my LS1 in my Typhoon off the Stock SyTy ecm just for this various reason.