I did a search. read the posts and still have ?'s. Whose adaptor plates keep the motor in the best position (not having to cut driveshafts etc.) I have a 1993 ext cab long bed 4x4 truck. thank you for your replys, Steve
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I did a search. read the posts and still have ?'s. Whose adaptor plates keep the motor in the best position (not having to cut driveshafts etc.) I have a 1993 ext cab long bed 4x4 truck. thank you for your replys, Steve
S&P's work well but the thickness can give you some problems trying to get the bolts to line up with the mounts. If you have access to a cutoff wheel, some 1/4" to 3/8" mild steel plate and a drill I can send you thed dimensions to make your own.
I bet these would work great for the price and they look like the same positioning as mine.
CAR SHOP LS1GM LS1 LS6 CONVERSION MOTOR MOUNTS ADAPTER PLATES $39.95 BUY ONLINE
nitrous. thanks for the quick response. I was on e-bay and saw those. They also have a 1" setback set available. Which would be better? thank you, Steve
I'm thinking the 1" setback allows you to keep your transmission in the stock location. I'd call Welcome to Street and Performance and ask them. They do more GM GENIII conversions than anyone I know of. Be sure to post what their answer was. :thumb:
okay, I called S&P today and spoke with Lambert. I didn't really get a definitive answer. He said that they had been doing the ls conversions the longest and that others have copied their adaptors. They list 2 adaptors the one puts the clamshell back into its regular spot. ( maybe this is the right one I need)('93 silverado w/tbi 350 and 4l60e 4x4) the other one listed sets the engine back 1". The one thing that gets me is their's is 5/8" thick alumium, wow, no wonder you have to slot holes. Lambert also said that not being 100% sure that he would not sell me a part so that I would not be unhappy with the results. ( customer satisfaction) Don't know if this helps or not. I will probably go with the 1/4" steel ones that Nitrous listed earlier from carshopinc. No setback. Steve Ps, I told Lambert that I may be using the stock 4l60e maybe another reason for the hesitation
buy the plates and bolt them to the engine. Mount the cups to the engine mounts on the frame. Set the engine down on the cups and then mark around the cup onto the plates so you'll know the location. Take the engine out and then clearance the cups for the bolt hole locations and then weld the cups to the plates or order the other set if it's 1" off.
plates i bought from BRP fit well without modifying anything. plates aren't made of aluminum either.... steel.