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Thread: Eaton Installation

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
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    175
    I am getting closer to ordering the Eaton here. I have a few questions though. A little background. 01 Silverado RCLB, 4.8L, 30k, 2wd, Open rear, 3.42 gears. I am only changing out the open rear, not the gears.

    Here is what I know so far.
    1) I need new carrier bearings and they need to be pressed on.

    2) I don't need a new crush sleeve, but it doesn't hurt to put a new one on.

    3) Axle seals should be ok at 30k.

    4) I can use the shims that are in the current installation. I just have to make sure I put them in the same way I take them out.

    Some questions I still have.
    5) Bearing side cups, I can reuse these right?

    6) I am going to have to have the ring gear pressed off the old open diff, right? Should I have this pressed off or can I do this a hammer and punch by putting the punch through the ring gear bolt holes.

    7) Then I can draw the ring gear onto the housing ring gear pilot diameter by equally tightening the ring gear bolts right?

    Thanks guys,
    Andrew

    I'm basically tring to figure out what exactly I need to order.
    Andrew
    2001 Silverado 6.0 RCLB - Home Page - 4.8 to 6.0 Swap
    Nelson Tune, Comp Cam XR265HR, Pacesetters, Hotchkis Sways, 3.42, Eaton Posi, Transgo, LS1 Fans, Magnaflow, Eagle 219's 18x9.5, Fold-a-cover

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    San Antonio, TX
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    11,038
    I'll try to help as much as possible, let's see;

    Yes on the cups or whatever they are called.

    The ring gear is held on with bolts, it should come off pretty easy.
    When I was watching mine and jeff's being put on, the gear just lays on the posi unit and the the bolts hold it on.

    You'll have to get the new bearing on the unit pressed on, if i remember correctly.

    On the shims, you should be ok with the original ones, just make them or make note.

    Replace that crush sleeve, the rest of your stuff should be ok since you only have 30K on the truck


    good luck,

    allen

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
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    175
    I have been told by three people that I don't need a new crush sleeve and by three others that I do. If I am not changing the pinion gear why do I need a new crush sleeve? If I do need a new one, doesn't the preload of the cush sleeve partly determine the backlash? Is the preload determined by the pinion gear?


    Andrew
    Andrew
    2001 Silverado 6.0 RCLB - Home Page - 4.8 to 6.0 Swap
    Nelson Tune, Comp Cam XR265HR, Pacesetters, Hotchkis Sways, 3.42, Eaton Posi, Transgo, LS1 Fans, Magnaflow, Eagle 219's 18x9.5, Fold-a-cover

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    San Antonio,TX
    Posts
    27
    Let me ask you this......Would you use the same condom twice?
    ASE MASTER AUTO TECHNICIAN
    "Get out from behind the magazine, learn from experience not from what you read."
    "True speed comes from the inside....not from what you bolt on."

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    San Antonio, TX
    Posts
    11,038


    why you're at it, change the seal too, just in case, you have it apart so you might as well ,

    good luck,

    allen

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    San Antonio, TX
    Posts
    11,038
    what if he washes it off real good?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    San Antonio,TX
    Posts
    27
    on that eaton installation, you don't have to remove the pinion and bearing assy., pull the axles far enough to access carrier keeping you're shims in order of removal. install the new part, perferably with new bearings and races. it's a real bitch getting the old bearings off. place the shims back where they came from torque the caps to 65lbs. oops ,the ring torque is 55lbs. happy motoring
    ASE MASTER AUTO TECHNICIAN
    "Get out from behind the magazine, learn from experience not from what you read."
    "True speed comes from the inside....not from what you bolt on."

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    North Central Arkansas, Cave City
    Posts
    279
    Originally posted by agreif@Oct 20 2003, 10:22 AM
    I am getting closer to ordering the Eaton here. I have a few questions though. A little background. 01 Silverado RCLB, 4.8L, 30k, 2wd, Open rear, 3.42 gears. I am only changing out the open rear, not the gears.

    Here is what I know so far.
    1) I need new carrier bearings and they need to be pressed on.

    2) I don't need a new crush sleeve, but it doesn't hurt to put a new one on.

    3) Axle seals should be ok at 30k.

    4) I can use the shims that are in the current installation. I just have to make sure I put them in the same way I take them out.

    Some questions I still have.
    5) Bearing side cups, I can reuse these right?

    6) I am going to have to have the ring gear pressed off the old open diff, right? Should I have this pressed off or can I do this a hammer and punch by putting the punch through the ring gear bolt holes.

    7) Then I can draw the ring gear onto the housing ring gear pilot diameter by equally tightening the ring gear bolts right?

    Thanks guys,
    Andrew

    I'm basically tring to figure out what exactly I need to order.
    1. I would use new bearings and races, you are talking about $30 all together

    2. You definitely don't need a new crush sleeve if you are just swapping carriers.

    3. Axle seals should be fine

    4. You need to check the backlash in your current setup and set your new carrier with close to the same amount. I have changed out several and they all very quite a lot.

    5. Bearing cups (races) I would use new ones with new bearings

    6. You can remove this with the hammer and punch

    7. You are right
    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...nstruckls1.jpg

    05 Joe Gibbs RCSB 5 gear
    99 Vette / 6 gear
    02 Honda Goldwing
    00 Hayabusa

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    San Antonio,TX
    Posts
    27
    Originally posted by farmtruc@Oct 20 2003, 08:07 PM
    what if he washes it off real good?
    ASE MASTER AUTO TECHNICIAN
    "Get out from behind the magazine, learn from experience not from what you read."
    "True speed comes from the inside....not from what you bolt on."

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Posts
    175
    Thanks guys. That helps a lot. I didn't realize the bearing cups and the races are the same thing. I plan on getting new bearings and races.

    Crush sleeve discussion. I have read here (http://www.ringpinion.com/tech/yukoninst.pdf) that it sets the preload of the pinion gear and affects backlash. My question is that, while I agree that is doesn't need to be changed, what is the reason so many people say to change it when I am not touching that part? Is it because they are in the gear changing mode as well? Or is it because that could get messed up or change? Just trying to get people's train of thought here.

    Allen, I like your thought of axle seals - they are right there so it might just be a good thing to do regardless.

    Installation Shims - would probably be a good idea to have these on hand. while the factory ones might work, there are manufacturing tolerances that could come into play and wreak havoc if I don't have the shims, right?

    Gear tooth contact patch pattern - if the backlash is close (within a mil or 2) to the original backlash, is checking that essential? I think I would do it regardless, but just curious.

    Thanks guys, sorry for all the questions,
    Andrew
    Andrew
    2001 Silverado 6.0 RCLB - Home Page - 4.8 to 6.0 Swap
    Nelson Tune, Comp Cam XR265HR, Pacesetters, Hotchkis Sways, 3.42, Eaton Posi, Transgo, LS1 Fans, Magnaflow, Eagle 219's 18x9.5, Fold-a-cover

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