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Thread: Install Tips on my 4x4 Trans Converter install?

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Install Tips on my 4x4 Trans Converter install?

    Hey everyone, I have a 2007 NNBS 4x4 silverado with the vortec max. I got my Yank Pro Truck 3200 stall in the mail on last friday and today I started tearing the truck apart. So far I have taken off the tranny linkage on the drivers side, the rear drive shaft, the front drive shaft from the front diff and the converter bolts. The only stuff I havent taken apart yet is the two lower tranny bolts, cross member and the transmission cooler lines. Is there anything else I need to disconnect before I go ahead and get all of that done and try to drop the transmission and transfer case? I was planning on dropping everything all at once with a couple of jacks. Is that a good or bad idea? Should I disconnect it from the transfer case for any reason? anything I should know before I do it?

    tommorrow when I get to the point of installing my new converter, what is it going to be like? 2 or 3 clicks? will it sit the same distance from the edge of the bell housing as the stock one did? Thanks for the help guys.
    07 Silverado LTZ 4x4 Vortec Max - Yank PT 3200 Stall, AR Headers, Volant Intake, Custom Tune, Vette Servo, Zone 3.5", Gunner 6's and 285 KM2's

    68 Chevelle ---> 489 ci Stroked RAT
    Needs Tuning and Suspension...times to come...

  2. #2
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    I'd recommend disconnecting all four 02 sensors from the wiring harness rather than unscrewing all of them from the Y-pipe. That way you can leave the 02 sensors in the Y-pipe when you drop it - easier that way, trust me. It may be easier to disconnect the transfer case then pull the trans, that way you have two lighter pieces rather than one big heavy piece. If I remember correctly it's only 6 bolts. Get a hold of Vince @ FLT for your questions about actaully installing the conveter. Hope this helps, good luck dude

    ~ Forged engine of some type ~ Ball bearing turbo of an unconfirmed size ~ 4L8000 trans ~ Beefy fuel system ~

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by jetmech View Post
    I'd recommend disconnecting all four 02 sensors from the wiring harness rather than unscrewing all of them from the Y-pipe. That way you can leave the 02 sensors in the Y-pipe when you drop it - easier that way, trust me. It may be easier to disconnect the transfer case then pull the trans, that way you have two lighter pieces rather than one big heavy piece. If I remember correctly it's only 6 bolts...
    +1. I would definitely take the transfer case away from the tranny.

    As for the converter, it will sit about an 1.25" away from the face of the bellhousing, or about the same distance as the stock converter.

    The converter will fall into place twice. Push the converter on the input shaft, wiggle and push it into the tranny. It will fall or "chunk" into place twice. Once the converter is properly seated, throw everything back up in there and the converter ears should be about 1/2" away from the flexplate. If it is closer or even touching, it is not seated properly.

    Good luck. Let us know if you have any other questions.

    2000 ECSB 6.0L
    TORQUER V2 CAM ● COMP 918's ● 7.4 HARDENED PUSHRODS ● K&N SERIES 77 CAI ● 80mm BBK ●PACESETTER LT HEADERS AND 3'' ORY ● SUPER 40 FLOW ● 3000 STALL ● 4.10s ● BUILT 80e ● VORTEC PERFORMANCE TUNE ● MSD 8.5mm PLUG WIRES● ELEC. CUTOUT ● UD & ALT PULLEYS ● FLEX-A-LITE E-FANS ● 22" CENTERLINE STINGRAY III's ● LUND FIBERGLASS TONNEAU ● 2" LEVELING SHACKLES ● 12K HID LOWS & FOGS ● LEDs ● DEBADGED ● WHITE-FACED ESCALADE GAUGES ● KICKER 450.1 ● 2-CVR 10's ● DS60's ● K693's

  4. #4
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    the converter should push in 3 steps not 2
    01 ecsb 5.3 4x4 z71
    Avalanche 17s and a pant load of miles

    61 Corvette
    350, 4 speed, 4.56's

    32 Ford 4 door sedan
    keeping it "stockish"

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by straightaxle View Post
    the converter should push in 3 steps not 2
    Wow...done 30+ converter/tranny installs in day day on 99-07 Classic trucks and have never known for the verter to push in three times....weird.

    Actually--to come to think of it, it could actually push in once. If you have the converter hub's keyway lined up with the front pump, you can slide it in with one shot. I've actually done that before.

    2000 ECSB 6.0L
    TORQUER V2 CAM ● COMP 918's ● 7.4 HARDENED PUSHRODS ● K&N SERIES 77 CAI ● 80mm BBK ●PACESETTER LT HEADERS AND 3'' ORY ● SUPER 40 FLOW ● 3000 STALL ● 4.10s ● BUILT 80e ● VORTEC PERFORMANCE TUNE ● MSD 8.5mm PLUG WIRES● ELEC. CUTOUT ● UD & ALT PULLEYS ● FLEX-A-LITE E-FANS ● 22" CENTERLINE STINGRAY III's ● LUND FIBERGLASS TONNEAU ● 2" LEVELING SHACKLES ● 12K HID LOWS & FOGS ● LEDs ● DEBADGED ● WHITE-FACED ESCALADE GAUGES ● KICKER 450.1 ● 2-CVR 10's ● DS60's ● K693's

  6. #6
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    I guess it go go either way, I was saying you'd feel it come over the nose of the input shaft, on to the splines and onto the pump, but yeah, you might only feel it go once or twice. measuring the depth is prob the best way to check it.
    01 ecsb 5.3 4x4 z71
    Avalanche 17s and a pant load of miles

    61 Corvette
    350, 4 speed, 4.56's

    32 Ford 4 door sedan
    keeping it "stockish"

  7. #7
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    Dec 2006
    Location
    Bloomingdale Illinois
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    287
    Here is a thread I started to help some of you out that are in need of help. I personally do not go by a three click method. You need to measure because you do not always get/feel the THREE CLICKS! Take some time to read through the thread there has been some great feed back and also info added by other members. Torque Converter Installations - LS1TECH

    By the way your yank should come with directions on this topic also. Vince

  8. #8
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    There he is Thanks for some more good info Vince!

    ~ Forged engine of some type ~ Ball bearing turbo of an unconfirmed size ~ 4L8000 trans ~ Beefy fuel system ~

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