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Thread: 4l80e ecsb driveshaft

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
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    754

    4l80e ecsb driveshaft

    I've been trying to research what to do about a driveshaft for my 4l80e swap. It's got a 2 piece right now and was thinkin I was gonna go to a 1 piece but I'm still really confused about what I should do. Stay stock, custom build, 1 piece 2 piece, 2500hd blah blah blah. I'm just kinda confused with this one.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
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    Rogers, Ar
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    51
    I dont know much about the 4l80 swap but if your lowered from what I hear its better to run a 2 piece to help with vibrations from pinion angle issues. Maybe you could have the front shaft shortened

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
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    Keep the 2 piece it will have a much higher critical speed allowing you to go faster. The 80e is actually only slightly longer than the 60e so I think many people just end up cutting the output shaft down a little bit and it ends up fitting.
    ECSB 2kSierra 2wd 4.8L-K&N-HPtuners-Calspeed LT's-Magnaflow-Tahoe20's-HankookRH06

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  4. #4
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    Aug 2007
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    Hmm yeah that's what I was mostly worried about was critical speed.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2008
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    wichita falls, tx
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    Don't switch to a one piece they wont be as strong as a two piece due to the length. You can use your stock drive shaft you will just need to have a short turbo 400 slip yoke welded on. Also I would not shorten it any, I did on mine be just a 1/4 but now it is out to far for my comfort.

    Junkyard 5.3 milled heads 200 shot, built 4l80e with circle D 4000 multi disc converter
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  6. #6
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    Aug 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by dropem View Post
    Don't switch to a one piece they wont be as strong as a two piece due to the length. You can use your stock drive shaft you will just need to have a short turbo 400 slip yoke welded on. Also I would not shorten it any, I did on mine be just a 1/4 but now it is out to far for my comfort.
    Ok so get a short th400 slip yoke and have the stock u joint welded on?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Long Beach California
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    im lowered 4/6 and kept my 2 piece and had to shorten the front an inch or so.... but i have a 95, you have a different body so im not sure if you would have do. im super happy with it.
    Like Tumbler in "Gone in 60" I'll drive anything with wheels or without

    My 95 ECSB LQ9 build thread - http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/lsx-t...to-95-obs.html
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    Stock 03 LQ9, DBW, 95' 4l80e w/ Transgo shift kit, 2010 50# GM injectors, 2800 Circle D stall, Spectre CAI, Upgraded trans cooler, Home-made E-fans/shroud, Dual EP-381 fuel pumps w/Home-made hotwire kit
    NEXT ON LIST: Dual Battery setup, CAM/Valvetrain upgrade, Build my own rear mount turbo, TRU-TRAC, HIT THE STRIP!!!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
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    754
    I found this on pt.net:

    Here is the part #'s you need to retain your stock driveshaft and bolt to the 80e (courtesy of superado):

    Neapco N3R-3-9161X
    Precision Premium #534G

  9. #9
    I used a long yoke that retains the factory u-joints. I just had to cut the yoke down to where it doesn't bottom out inside the transmission. I'm spraying around a 300 shot of nitrous off the line and had no issues..

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
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    754
    Quote Originally Posted by dirt track racer 81 View Post
    I used a long yoke that retains the factory u-joints. I just had to cut the yoke down to where it doesn't bottom out inside the transmission. I'm spraying around a 300 shot of nitrous off the line and had no issues..
    Damn that good to hear. Sorry I am new to the driveshaft subject. So you're using a cut down yoke from say a 3/4 ton but you're using the factory u joint that came on your 2 piece driveshaft?

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