What fuel rails and regulator?

[Warsteiner]

What fuel rails and regulator setup is everyone running? Professional products? Aeromotive? rpm outlet has the rail kit for $112 and the bypass regulator for $85... I have the returnless style right now.. but i've heard i can use my evap line for a return line.... but how do i do this?

My plan is to run an additional feed line from the tank... i would like to keep my factory line also since it contains the fuel composition sensor and i would like to retain the ethanol/ alcohol compatibility. I plan on installing twin intank walbro's on separate circuits and seperate lines up to the rails where i will merge them in to one line for the right side rail. One pump on the factory wiring, composition sensor and lines running all the time... a 3-5 psi hobbs switch on the second pump with its own relay and harness pushing through a second feed line that has a one-way check valve right at the pump so the line will stay pressurized 100% of the time the truck is running by the primary pump.. then when needed the pump will kick on and not have any lag time to fill the line and cause a pressure issue at the regulator and possible temporary lean condition. This should work in theory... time will tell. I think it is an efficient way to keep e85 capability and only have the flow needed by twin pumps and twin lines when required. but should i just plumb a new return line back to my sending unit or convert my evap line to a return?

[Frenchy]

I honestly think you are making this way too difficult on yourself.

[farmtruc]

We just did three twin pumps this month and they have been working very well for semi aggressive, daily driven setups.
The setup seems to be holding 600hp pretty well.
Fuel pressure stays constant and idc is acceptable.

Get you a 13109 Aeromotive regulator.
Twin walbro pumps.
10feet of high pressure fuel line ( i suggest the Russell blue twist lock hose)
Fittings

Gut the fuel bucket, install the twin pumps fastened to each other.
I make Y's out of 3/8 stainless tubing to join the two together.
Outlet on the Y is one of those flexible corrogated white tubes.
Use stock fuel line up to the engine.
Feed line comes in the side of the regulator, out the other side and into the stock fuel rail.
We used the evap line for a return line, so that goes to the bottom of the regulator.

We also do some rewiring. We take apart the factory bucket power connector and run 10g wire for the power wire, stock is 18g i think.
Power wire is connected to the alternator, fused of course.
On the inside tank connector, the two 12g wires split off the 10g wire and feed the pumps.
Do the same for ground, using a 10g wire to the frame, or battery.

Since the evap line was used, you'll need to block off that big 7/8 port on top of the fuel bucket.
This causes an issue with pressure building up and filling the tank.
So, tap the highest point of the tank and vent it to the top of the filler neck.

No gas fumes are noticed.
Set the fuel pressure to about 60psi.
We don't use a hobbs switch either, both running all the time is fine. Return pressure is about 20psi.

No issues with this setup and so far it's supporting 14psi on a forged iron 5.7L.

let me know if you need specifics.

We're doing another one Monday, I'll do a write up on this.

[SLO TRUCK]

Where is the write up on this? I needs it. Chop Chop LOL.

[graysilverado5.3]

LOL, wheres the write up?

[go5.3tt06]

Where write up. You run twin pumps all the time. Would kill mpg. If use hobb switch would be save gas.