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Thread: Broken Manifold bolt.............. Suggestions...........

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    264

    Broken Manifold bolt.............. Suggestions...........

    My friend and I were prepping my engine and installing a new oil pan.. he noticed the driver side rear manifold bolt was broken and there were signs that both sides had leaking manifold gaskets... luckily the rest of them came out with no issue... the one that is broken is broke off almost flush with the head.. Any suggestions on the easiest way to fix without removing the head and taking it to a machine shop...

    Also should I go back with OEM bolts or something different... this seems to be a problem with the stock stuff... I will be re using my stock manifolds

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    7
    Weld a nut to the stud. Since the head is aluminum it will not stick to head. Weld a little bump on stud hold nut up and weld center up. Then just remove it worked on 3 on my bolts.

    Quote Originally Posted by 1991SSP View Post
    My friend and I were prepping my engine and installing a new oil pan.. he noticed the driver side rear manifold bolt was broken and there were signs that both sides had leaking manifold gaskets... luckily the rest of them came out with no issue... the one that is broken is broke off almost flush with the head.. Any suggestions on the easiest way to fix without removing the head and taking it to a machine shop...

    Also should I go back with OEM bolts or something different... this seems to be a problem with the stock stuff... I will be re using my stock manifolds

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Savannah, ga
    Posts
    315
    you can get stud extractors, where you drill a hole and use a left handed extractor to turn it back out too.

    i tried this and the extractor broke so i had to take the head up to the shop and use a carbide endmill to clean all that shit out and re-tap it to clean the threads.
    1997 RCSB, AES 390 + 4L80E transplant, F1A Procharger, #160 injectors, Magnafuel 750, Schoenfield Longtubes, 3" flowmasters, Steve Morris Bullit cam, Circle D 3k stall, Ford 9" rear, Homemade Caltrac bars.


  4. #4
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    Racoon Twp., PA
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    Done both ways. If you need more room, loosen body bolts, undo steerin shaft, and jack up the body a little bit. Makes easier when going through the fender. If you undo your grounds too, you could raise it up to 4".
    2013 CC 5.3
    81 C10 LS1 project

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
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    264
    Going to give the welding a nut to the stud a try in the next few days

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Arizona/Utah
    Posts
    3,939
    Prior to doing anything shoot some penetrating spray in there and let it sit. I would suggest doing this a few times then letting it sit
    Should make getting it out easier.
    ECSB 2kSierra 2wd 4.8L-K&N-HPtuners-Calspeed LT's-Magnaflow-Tahoe20's-HankookRH06

    waiting to go in... 3.90s, 214/220cam

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
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    8,031
    Man this crap sucks when it happens and very common it's either the front one or back one lol easier with engine or head off... I drill and re tap them with slot of wd40

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    148
    Quote Originally Posted by LsSonoma View Post
    Weld a nut to the stud. Since the head is aluminum it will not stick to head. Weld a little bump on stud hold nut up and weld center up. Then just remove it worked on 3 on my bolts.
    Take inner fender out and do what he said, it will work an not that hard. If u don't have means to what u need talk to friends, no need to remove head, just more work, that is not needed. Hope everything goes well for u!
    Last edited by lilblu; 02-16-2013 at 03:51 AM.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Barnwell, SC
    Posts
    471
    Copper rtv. That's what I did. Works great and no more leaks.
    99 Silverado 4.8l : Soon to be 80E swapped, then 6.0 swapped, ......
    05 Yukon Denali 6.0l : Nelson Performance Tune, ......
    8X S10 Blazer on a 8X 3/4 ton frame : 5.3l swapped, Nelson Performance tune, Schoenfeld LT's, 226/226 .598/.598 112, TH350, planetary doubler, NP 205, locker, spool, 38's, ......
    Quote Originally Posted by blacksss46 View Post
    couldn't agree more. its like boobs you'll get a C and end up wanting a D...just get the bigger one and be happy

  10. #10
    It isn't gonna come out too easy because those bolts have yellow locktite on from the factory so i doubt penetrating oil will do much but welding the nut on might be a good shot because it gives you something to turn it out with and may heat up the locktite enough to break it free.

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