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Thread: 97 RCSB 6.0L + 4L80E + Procharger swap:)

  1. #11
    not sure about the 3rd line on yours. i'm swapping an LS1 from a camaro into my truck & if i remember right the third line i have goes to the radiator hose. i'm not to that part of my swap yet.

    you can remove the evap but you'll have to have it removed from the ECU when you get it tuned.

    i went a different route with my oil & temp sensor. i bought a single wire plug for the LS1 oil pressure sensor & a 3 pin coolant temp sensor with a a harness so i only have the one sensor.
    you can check them out in my build thread. http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...gondown-3.html

    dip stick tube should have an o-ring. i'd try some needle nose & try to bend the tube so you can grab it & try to pull it out with the needle nose. or you should be able to drop the pan & push it out from the inside.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Atlanta Ga
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    692
    Quote Originally Posted by mattc View Post
    sweet! yeah i read through your entire thread and was taking some notes lol

    on this part though i dont really understand whats going on with that? is that for the old tranny or the 4.8 tranny i'm not sure if it would be the same since i'm swapping the 4l80e in with the engine?






    added some to the ?s with no answers yet


    2. on the power steering pump what do i do about the third line? hydroboost? cap it off?
    3. what do i do with the third plastic fuel line or whatever that is, some sort of vent or evap line or something. do they make a plate to cap this off as well?
    4. what do i need to do about the temp sensor to make it work with my gauges, i saw a few people using adapters to use the 97 sensor i'd like to just keep them all the lq4 sensors if i can to keep it simple later.
    5. the factory oil dip stick was rusted to pieces and broke on me and the piece that slides into the block broke off flush with the block any tips on removing this, would it have a rubber grommet? or an o ring?
    6. does anyone know of someone who notched the frame to use the LS style a/c compressor in its original location and might have some pictures?
    awesome happy you were able to use my thread as a resource. i been really busy and havent had a chance to put in any work. sundays are my usual days but my giants are in the play offs so i been glued to the tv on sundays now lol.
    thaat last part is for the original trans. i believe you will need to splice some wires from the original park/neutral safty switch in order for it to work.
    i have the same power steering question i have the third line and im not sure what to do with it. ill just cap it off for now and if it gives me any issues ill just get a different pump.

    you can use the original 97 sender and wire from the truck harness. there an adapter that goes in to the block then your original snder will then attach to that. i believe you can keep the ls sensor if you plan on running electric fans. the stock sender will connect to the front left hand side and if you decide to run both the 97 sender goes into the rear right hand side.

    dipstick has an oring at the bottom. only thing i can think of is remove the oil pan and push it through with some pliers.

    ive heard alot of people running into problems notching the fame. you are better off getting a relocation bracket that put the a/c compressor on the top right side of the engine. i just sold one by kwik performance. cost about 200 then you would have to buy and sanden compressor. or novak has a kit that uses the compressor from the pre 95 truck. i would use that one because the parts would be easier to interchange. the lines condensor etc.
    Last edited by myzterray; 01-17-2012 at 02:33 PM.
    96 2 Door Tahoe 4wd / 5.3 Swap / CAI / Tune / Pacesetter LTs / Magnaflow / LED Dash / Novak A/C Bracket /


    http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/lsx-t...ders-pics.html

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Savannah, ga
    Posts
    317
    finally got a little more free time to tinker with the engine a bit, i pulled the accessories off and valve covers and get the crank bolt broke loose, man what a bitch that was lol. i ended up sticking a 12" extension in the pulley and let it rest on the a/c bracket, got another 3/4 drive socket and a 12 in cheater bar + a 4 foot jack handle and lift up and broke it loose, when it moved it literally made a spark lol and i damn near had the front of the engine stand off the ground but its loose! the top of the heads look pretty clean and nice so i'm happy with that.

    now i just gotta wait for one more paycheck so i can order a cam, pushrods, springs, and a timing chain from Bob @ Brutespeed!





  4. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Savannah, ga
    Posts
    317
    still haven't had much time to tinker with the engine buttttt i did get enough time to weld/redrill the holes in my axles back to a 5x5 pattern so i could install the new wheels and M&H tires and HOLY SHIT does this thing hook and go now. wheels are Weld RT-s 15x8.25 w 5.50 backspacing with 275/60s. i did manage to get some brackets cut out for the caltrac bars but i'm still waiting on my heim joints to get in before i put it all together.



  5. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Savannah, ga
    Posts
    317
    added some home made caltracs today cost me right at $100 bucks for everything! sure beats 400 for the premade ones!




  6. #16
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    428
    This is going to be an awesome build I can see it now, that was a really good price on the drivetrain too! Do the caltracs really do any good? I was thinking about buying a set for my colorado, but I have to buy the pre made ones because I don't have those skills///

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Savannah, ga
    Posts
    317
    Quote Originally Posted by TRPLXL2 View Post
    This is going to be an awesome build I can see it now, that was a really good price on the drivetrain too! Do the caltracs really do any good? I was thinking about buying a set for my colorado, but I have to buy the pre made ones because I don't have those skills///
    i'm not sure how good they do yet lol hopefully i dont get called out to work and can go to the track this weekend and find out, i know when i first put them on i used a setup from this site http://www.hotrodsandhemis.com/Traction.html


    but it was WAYYYYY to stiff as in i think i dislodged a few vertebrae lol a lil while ago i went outside and loosened them up so well see this weekend how it does with the new M&H radials!

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Savannah, ga
    Posts
    317
    well now i'm just waiting on my ls2 lifter holders which will hopefully be here tomorrow and i can start putting her back together!



  9. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Savannah, ga
    Posts
    317
    got the short block put together now just waiting on all my gaskets to come in


  10. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Savannah, ga
    Posts
    317
    got a few more things in today all my gaskets to finish assembly, my Circle D converter and flexplate and a transgo shiftkit, also ordered hp tuners so i can get this thing running when i get it all wired in.


    i have some questions about the fuel system though. this is how i was thinking it should go

    walbro 255------>Filter------>intake inlet fuel line-----> injectors


    is the regulator that came with the lq4 intake going to work? or do i need to add something to make this all work? i've tried searched a little but i havent really found a deffinate answer that makes me feel all warm and fuzzy and sure about the setup lol.

    i have the dual fuel lines already if that matters.

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