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LSX Truck Conversions LSX, 4.8, 5.3, 6.0, 8.1 Swaps
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Old 01-02-2008, 08:10 PM
keniff keniff is offline
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94 1500 Progress

I have a 94 ext cab with the 4.3L auto.
I have an LQ4 6.0 that I'll be putting in because the 4.3 is slow and I don't want to destroy my white truck.

6.0 List is:
04 6.0 with 30k, almost complete.
VIG3200 stall
44LB injectors
243 heads that are getting milled .020 with stock head gaskets to achieve my 10:5:1 compression.
cam is unknown because I don't know what I want yet.
Patriot Gold Dual Springs soon to come
Clean and Paint the block and such.
Replace all the gaskets that will be hard to get to when the motor is installed.
Have the Carrier Bearing replaced, and the Drive Shaft balanced so I can race it and possibly go over 140mph
I'm saving to get a FLT level 5 tranny.

I'm purchasing the adapter plates, but I don't know which one to get....the one that puts it in the Stock location or the one that Pushes it Forward 1" or the one that sets it Back 1".

The most part that I am struggling with is the wiring harness. I have the Haynes Repair Manuals on both trucks (88-98) (99-05)
For the guys who did your own wiring did you use the Wiring Diagrams in the back of the book? I don't have the time to understand them just yet, but I don't want to spend 600-800 on a wiring harness. Through all of the pictures I've seen I have yet to understand how to hook the wires up and such.



In the next few weeks I'll be swapping my truck to 6 lug.






but I'll be going with the OEM Chevy rims instead.

Thanks for all of yalls input.
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Old 01-02-2008, 08:14 PM
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a LQ4 with 243 heads alone should put you right around 10.4. since 243 heads on a LQ9 puts it at 11.1

milling the heads should net you around 10.8. your 44s are little to large for your setup. a good set of 36s are plenty for a 6litre. 44s are good for 402/408s

gaskets on these motors arent like yesterdays. they are actually metal and dont go bad.
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Old 01-02-2008, 08:17 PM
keniff keniff is offline
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a LQ4 with 243 heads alone should put you right around 10.4. since 243 heads on a LQ9 puts it at 11.1

milling the heads should net you around 10.8. your 44s are little to large for your setup. a good set of 36s are plenty for a 6litre. 44s are good for 402/408s

gaskets on these motors arent like yesterdays. they are actually metal and dont go bad.
so i pissed money away on the injectors, the oil pump and such.
will the injectors be way too much for the motor even when tuned?

i thought the gaskets on the rear seal and such aren't like the intake gaskets....
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Old 01-02-2008, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by keniff View Post
so i pissed money away on the injectors, the oil pump and such.
will the injectors be way too much for the motor even when tuned?

i thought the gaskets on the rear seal and such aren't like the intake gaskets....
the rear seal and front seal are rubber and oens that do go bad yes. but rest are reusable and not prone to going bad

give ya an idea on injector. my 11.1 408 with a 244/248 cam at 7k only seen 76% duty cycle with 48# injectrs. they were svo 42s

my 6.0 at 11.1 with a 232/234 cam only seen 73% duty cycle at 6800, same motor with a 242/248 cam only seen 81% duty cycle in a fbody with svo 30s with are 36# injectors

some will say youll use themn down the road im telling you from my experience what i encounterd. you want ot be between 70 and 85% duty cycle for ideal

our intake gaskets dont go bad, they are rubber O rings...well they arent O but like a rectangle
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Old 01-02-2008, 08:30 PM
keniff keniff is offline
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the rear seal and front seal are rubber and oens that do go bad yes. but rest are reusable and not prone to going bad

give ya an idea on injector. my 11.1 408 with a 244/248 cam at 7k only seen 76% duty cycle with 48# injectrs. they were svo 42s

my 6.0 at 11.1 with a 232/234 cam only seen 73% duty cycle at 6800, same motor with a 242/248 cam only seen 81% duty cycle in a fbody with svo 30s with are 36# injectors

some will say youll use themn down the road im telling you from my experience what i encounterd. you want ot be between 70 and 85% duty cycle for ideal

our intake gaskets dont go bad, they are rubber O rings...well they arent O but like a rectangle

well, i picked the injectors up for cheaper than brand new and they dont have a lot of miles on them so i didn't want to pass them up.

i'll never go FI unless i win the lottery so looks like ill be just an NA6.0 in an OBS.

the wiring is the hardest thing that i've come across and it seems like no one has pictures or details on exactly what to hook up where and such. i'll wait to see if i can rework my harness or not then if i cant ill spend the money on one.

this swap should take me some time so it'll be a step by step move.

BUT any input and help will be great.
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Old 01-02-2008, 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by keniff View Post
well, i picked the injectors up for cheaper than brand new and they dont have a lot of miles on them so i didn't want to pass them up.

i'll never go FI unless i win the lottery so looks like ill be just an NA6.0 in an OBS.

the wiring is the hardest thing that i've come across and it seems like no one has pictures or details on exactly what to hook up where and such. i'll wait to see if i can rework my harness or not then if i cant ill spend the money on one.

this swap should take me some time so it'll be a step by step move.

BUT any input and help will be great.
actually harness is easy to work with. remove all that is unnecessary and youll have left only a few wires that need power. say about 5 hours given you take time and etc. you could have more time but 5 hours would be a safe bet

i havent did a swap in that truck but have done the swap for other year rides. a standalone harness is a standalone harness. now to mate some of the wires to your stock wiring would take longer
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Old 01-02-2008, 08:40 PM
keniff keniff is offline
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actually harness is easy to work with. remove all that is unnecessary and youll have left only a few wires that need power. say about 5 hours given you take time and etc. you could have more time but 5 hours would be a safe bet

i havent did a swap in that truck but have done the swap for other year rides. a standalone harness is a standalone harness. now to mate some of the wires to your stock wiring would take longer
thought all you would need is a few wires and such.

my brother in laws brother in law (if that makes any sense) bracket races so he's going to help me with the install and wiring and such.
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Old 01-02-2008, 08:56 PM
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thought all you would need is a few wires and such.

my brother in laws brother in law (if that makes any sense) bracket races so he's going to help me with the install and wiring and such.
i said about that time frame is if youre doing it neat and etc. i remove all wires all way back to the block, not just cut and leave like alot do


so some relation to you that is a bracket racer goign to help????? good luck i think i got what you were saying
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Old 01-02-2008, 09:01 PM
keniff keniff is offline
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yeah basically lmao.


everything is taking time.

i'll get most of the parts ordered and such then i'll go from there.
i'm using the truck as my work truck right now so its in and out of mud all day everyday.

i'm taking the a/c out and most of the stuff from the engine bay, painting it and cleaning things up. it'll be a D.D. race truck when it's done but as of right now it's just gonna be a Dust Collector.
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Old 01-03-2008, 11:27 PM
keniff keniff is offline
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who is able to build a custom wiring harness for just what i need nothing else, nothing more. i dont need the PCMs i'll be getting a custom tune for it so the PCM will be added to the price.

i'm not looking to spend 700 on just a harness.

Thanks.
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