
Originally Posted by
EZRado
Blocks? That sounds like a very bad idea.
You might be able to move the seat up one inch, not sure. But the further up you go the more you are going to be on the extremes of the strength of those hangers. I would do a cut through; I have never had any leakage issues. You cannot beat the sound that comes from a cut through, can't do it. I cut out to the main support stampings on my cab and bed. I think I could go a bit bigger even.
If you did move your seat up, I would study those hard and make sure you build them out sturdy enough. As far as the concern about my stuff not being as strong the factory, guess what boys, our factory seats are junk. When torn down for inspection I realized how cheap they really are. My seat was trashed from normal use. The metal bar in the back of the seat bottom was bent to hell and the springs were falling off. I will replace it with my donor bottom. With the new mounts I added even with the middle missing out of the seat it is much stronger the before.
Any of you wanting to do this, please get the tabs like I did and glue them in, GLUE, not weld, it's much stronger. 3M 08115 is the stuff. I have a cheap way to use the stuff if you don't wanna drop the $300.00 for the gun to use it. As far as lifting the seat, if you must, here's what I would do. You could do blocks however you are going to modify your seat anyway, so I would cut the legs of your set and weld in 4"X.125" plate adding your space for your 1". Then I would cut off (very carefully) your factory mounting tabs from the back. Weld in a plate of .125" (1/8")X4" plate long enough to allow for the new mounting height. I would then weld on your factory tab plate to it in the new lower position. You have now raised your seat in the best engineered fashion. Hope that helps.