Splitting rear seat.

[Duct_tape123]

Check this out!

I found it searching for something totally different but I remembered this thread. I can't find anymore info about it, just that picture.

[Duct_tape123]

I have a question for you now. When the seat is in the upright position how much of the hangers on the seat are below the holder on the back wall? I'm trying to fit some subs under my back seat and I need more volume so I want to raise the seat up at least 1" but I need to know if the hangers are long enough.

[pl4yboy]

Blocks? Block up your back seat. I put 3" blocks under a friends back seat for him.

[lo-lyf]

The only way you should lift up the back seat is if you drop the hooks down the same amount that you lift the seat. GMCvho has a pretty sick setup on his truck with blocks under the back seat, I'm sure he could shed some light on the subject. I always pushed for a bedcut over lifting the back seat for bigger subs; cheaper, easier, safer, louder, and if you do it right it will never leak.

[EZRado]

Blocks? That sounds like a very bad idea.
You might be able to move the seat up one inch, not sure. But the further up you go the more you are going to be on the extremes of the strength of those hangers. I would do a cut through; I have never had any leakage issues. You cannot beat the sound that comes from a cut through, can't do it. I cut out to the main support stampings on my cab and bed. I think I could go a bit bigger even.

If you did move your seat up, I would study those hard and make sure you build them out sturdy enough. As far as the concern about my stuff not being as strong the factory, guess what boys, our factory seats are junk. When torn down for inspection I realized how cheap they really are. My seat was trashed from normal use. The metal bar in the back of the seat bottom was bent to hell and the springs were falling off. I will replace it with my donor bottom. With the new mounts I added even with the middle missing out of the seat it is much stronger the before.

Any of you wanting to do this, please get the tabs like I did and glue them in, GLUE, not weld, it's much stronger. 3M 08115 is the stuff. I have a cheap way to use the stuff if you don't wanna drop the $300.00 for the gun to use it. As far as lifting the seat, if you must, here's what I would do. You could do blocks however you are going to modify your seat anyway, so I would cut the legs of your set and weld in 4"X.125" plate adding your space for your 1". Then I would cut off (very carefully) your factory mounting tabs from the back. Weld in a plate of .125" (1/8")X4" plate long enough to allow for the new mounting height. I would then weld on your factory tab plate to it in the new lower position. You have now raised your seat in the best engineered fashion. Hope that helps.

[EZRado]

Wow you could hide illegal’s in that thing! Cool, but kinda ugly, and to me screams custom. Good custom you can't tell it.

[lo-lyf]

To be honest, the seatbelts are the most important part as far as safety goes. Yeah the seat needs to be sturdy but most of the "human not flying out the window" support is in the seatbelts. And I too think pitting blocks under the seat to lift it is a bad idea because a. It doesn't look god in most cases and b. It doesn't seem to be the safest route (as far as these trucks go). I have only seen one truck that looks good with a lifted back seat. Bedcut all the way, hands down.

[Duct_tape123]

At the most I'd go 1". I was going to knock the bolts out and weld in some longer bolts. I was going to use some 1x2 steel tubing for the spacer under the main supports, and a chunk of 1x1 for the tie down in the middle and seat belts. And I need all the bed space I can get because I actually use my truck for hauling stuff. But a blow through would be nice and loud.

[pl4yboy]

You know me and safety... Of course I moved the hangers up.

[lo-lyf]

^^^^someone needs to be banned
Edit* alright he got banned.